They thought she was mad. But one publisher took on her book idea and soon it won a coveted prize

In our fast-changing food world, you need to catch the wave. To not be too ahead of your time – or behind the curve. Sometimes it’s a simple matter of good timing and luck, but making a mark also demands talent, persistence and an unswerving love of your subject.

Angela Clutton’s debut food book, The Vinegar Cupboard (Bloomsbury Absolute), which was shortlisted for the André Simon Prize, captured the upsurge of interest in fermentation, gut health and the use of acidity in cooking. It’s an essential reference manual, but also showcases its subject in a way that makes you wonder why no one had written it before.

Recently appointed Guest Director of the British Library’s 2020 ‘Food Season’ of talks and events, here Angela speaks to Clarissa Hyman about growing her career and pitching her book.

How did you come to start food writing? Is this a second career?

I used to be a theatre producer in London’s West End, but I reached a point about ten years ago when I really was starting to feel burnt-out. I needed to re-assess where my life was going, even if it meant living on the income of a church mouse for a while.

I studied classics at Edinburgh, and have always been interested in the way history tells you so much about people and their lives rather than just a recital of dry dates. Once I became interested in food, I really taught myself about food history in order to learn more about the stories and relationships between people and food.

Becoming a food writer was a slow evolution, but I began really by writing for an online magazine for free. This monthly column helped me develop a voice, a style and the discipline to write to deadlines. It gave me also the confidence to pitch ideas to nationals such as the Independent. One of the first articles I did for them was about punches and I included modern versions of Victorian recipes. It was both hugely gratifying and a way of having a calling card to approach other publications.

How did the book come about?

I’d long wanted to write a book, and initially I was thinking about a straight historical one about female Victorian food writers – there was a whole gaggle of them just doing it and taking advantage of the new printing presses despite the pressure of drunken husbands and needy children! In a way, they were like today’s bloggers but loads have been forgotten. I did quite a lot of work on this idea but it just didn’t happen; however, I did learn how to put together a good book proposal.

And what can you advise readers about that process?

You’ve got to have the idea or concept clearly in your head, but the act of writing does help you to become clear. You also need to make your proposal concise, focused and structured. You have to think whether it’s been done before and, if so, how? How will your book fit into the market? Who is it aimed at? What level of knowledge or skill?

Is there anything that really helped you along the way?

My biggest break was to get work at Borough Market in London running their Cookbook Club and writing for them, and this came about through being a member of the Guild of Food Writers. The latter has been a really supportive network, so I would encourage everyone who meets the requirements to join!

Winning the Jane Grigson Trust Award for best commissioned manuscript really lit the touch paper, though, and gave me the momentum to carry on to the finish line.

Why vinegar?

Reading all those Victorian cookbooks highlighted the place of vinegar in the kitchen. I found so many interesting recipes which used, say, a few drops of gooseberry vinegar in ways I had never considered. Then the fascination grew and I completely fell down the rabbit hole!

The story of vinegar is social history as well as personal, agricultural and scientific – cooking with acidity to balance other elements is fascinating. But so much is interconnected: for example, the decline of the American vinegar industry relates directly to Prohibition.

How hard was it to get a commission?

Most publishers I approached thought I was mad. One editor loved the idea, but was over-ruled by the marketing department. Time was just going on and on, it was three years since I started, and I finally said to myself I’ll give it one more roll of the dice and if that doesn’t work then I’ll just forget it or consider self-publishing but I was hesitant about that. Other people suggested I collaborate with a commercial brand, but then it would be unlikely I could include the global breadth and scope of the research I had already done. The last publisher was Absolute, who are part of Bloomsbury, and to my delight they ‘got it‘ from the off. And, perhaps, in the end, the timing was indeed right: if the book had come out a year or two ago it, perhaps, would have been too soon.

Do you have any research tips?

You have to be careful of the internet as it can send you off into a warren of both discovery and errors. You need to check what you find, but internet research can also be a good starting point. Original research always helps: I initially found vinegar makers to be a bit of a ‘closed’ bunch but once they feel confident with you will share their knowledge. I think I am now an official vinegar ‘nerd’!

I do a lot of research in both the British Library and the London Library – Abe Books is another good source of material – but it does take time to trawl through obscure references.

Is there anything you were not able to include in the book in the depth you would have liked?

I wish I could have traveled to China, but production there is behind very closed doors. I have done some research into regional rice vinegars there and I would have liked the time and money to pursue this a lot further.

Is there anything that surprised you when doing your research for the book?

I was amazed at the range of techniques I came across – I mean, just how does rice become vinegar? - but the book is not really about making vinegar as much as discovering artisan vinegars.

What is your opinion of supermarket vinegars?

I try not to be pejorative about mass market vinegars. To me, it’s about understanding what the differences are, what you use different vinegars for, and if the expensive ones are worth the price.

Do you come from a foodie family?

My mother was a good baker but with a limited repertoire. She didn’t really pass the recipes on to me but when I tried to replicate them, I found I had an aptitude for it. I love doing recipes now but it was not always easy when putting the book together to balance the recipes with the narrative in each section. I worked out this amazing spreadsheet to make sure to place the recipes in the right place. Indexing was a big tussle in that every recipe includes vinegar!

Running Borough Market Cookbook Club was also really helpful when it came to writing recipes: for example, I never realised just how much the phrase “a handful” really irritates people!

Is there any further advice you can give to people hoping to or about to publish their first cookery book?

Although your publisher can help with publicity, their time is limited and you don’t always get their undivided attention. So I decided to pay for my own PR as a decision to invest in the business of the book. So far it’s been money well spent.

Follow Angela on Instagram @angela_clutton and Twitter @angela_clutton